Currently, there are many ways to classify walls based on materials as well as outstanding features, but the biggest concern is the ability of the building structure is the classification by bearing properties. Therefore, the concept of bearing wall was born? How thick could it be? Along with the answer through the article below!
What is a bearing wall?
The bearing wall is an important part of the load-bearing function. In addition to its own load, it can also bear the load of other parts of the house structure.
The material of this wall can be clay or concrete brick. It is based on the characteristics and function to withstand this wall into two types: vertical bearing walls and horizontal bearing walls. The thickness of this wall is usually about 220mm thick and there must be foundation bracing, it is normal to be thicker than other walls because it must ensure safety for the whole house.
Structure of load-bearing wall
There will be two types of force transmission in the bearing structure that is: horizontally or vertically down to the foundation system.
Wall structure bearing horizontal
A horizontal load-bearing structure is only used to separate load-bearing rooms of all other parts from the foundation system of the building. Horizontal bearing structures are commonly applied in houses with uniform rooms and the width of the space step is B <4m.
To learn more about this type of texture, the following are pros and cons that you can refer to:
- Simple structure, good load capacity, low beams are required and a small attic floor is fine.
- The bulkhead between the room spaces has a high thickness so it is good for sound insulation.
- Because it is a vertical wall, in this case, it has a covering function, all windows of the flexible opening help in ventilation and attracts more natural light.
- For houses with sloped roofs, walls often use recovered walls as load-bearing structures to help shorten construction time and maximize all costs.
- Due to the unplanned arrangement of rooms, the lack of flexibility gave a feeling of extreme monotony. The size of the room will normally always be equal.
- Doesn’t take advantage of vertical wall capabilities.
- Due to the thick bearing horizontal wall, it will cause a lot of construction cost and much effort.
Bearing vertical wall
The bearing structure is usually arranged in the vertical direction of the house. And like the bearing horizontal wall, the following are the pros and cons of the bearing structure:
- The architectural layout is extremely flexible.
- Make full use of the bearing capacity of other outer walls.
- Vertical wall structure saves the foundation construction area and materials.
- Due to the thin wall thickness, the sound insulation is not good.
- It is impossible to open many windows, which causes limited ventilation in the house space and cannot attract natural light.
- Do not take advantage of the horizontal wall but instead have to use it for trusses, trusses, or slopes.
Horizontal wall combined with bearing vertical wall
Wall bearing, whether horizontally or vertically, has its own advantages and disadvantages. So you wonder, is it possible to combine the horizontal and vertical walls bearing together? This is entirely possible, so it is called the combined load-bearing wall.
When you are arranged both horizontally and vertically, the rooms will be arranged more flexibly, making the overall house more pleasing and sturdy. The rooms will also have horizontal walls to create ventilation at the wind end, while the wind end will be arranged vertically to bear the force.
How many floors is the most secure for the bearing walls?
Do you have to calculate every detail to ensure the ability to support the whole house, so you wonder how many floors bearing the bearing wall? In the problem of construction, the wall is divided into two main groups: load-bearing walls play the role of bearing the load of the house and walls only bear its load.
Being able to determine what is a load-bearing wall is extremely important because it makes it easier for you to repair or renovate your home. Determining the direction of the load-bearing wall to choose the number of guaranteed floors will be based on:
Rely on the walls of the house to help you determine the position of this type of wall. Because normally if the wall is the only structure in the house to build to withstand the force, it is the walls that hold the position around the house. These walls have good sound insulation, moisture resistance, and effective insulation.
Bearing walls in high-rise buildings
Since these walls apply to tall buildings, the higher it goes, the lower the wall thickness and there are some locations where there may be no walls. These walls have no load-bearing effect, so they do not need to be retained, and walls that cannot reduce the thickness are mainly loaded walls. To ensure the safety of the house you are in, you should only use load-bearing walls with a height of no more than 5 floors, this is also an answer to the question of how many floors to be built with bearing walls.
These walls must always be thicker than the rest, the thickness must be more than 22cm and with braces.
With walls used to bear the load, normally materials are very diverse, usually built with bricks, stone, concrete, but for civil houses, only stone and brick are used to build.
Through the above analysis, it can be seen that a house can be affected by the load-bearing wall through many factors such as wall location, wall material, structures in high-rise buildings, and wall thickness. Because the higher the wall, the lower the wall thickness, so building with houses with 5 floors or less will be a reasonable level of construction in your construction plan, to ensure support for the safety of residents. as well as saving costs so that the most effective.
5 Things You Should Consider Before Removing A Wall Without Weights
In the do-it-yourself interior wall removal business, there are two types – load-bearing and non-load bearing. Load-bearing walls support the weight of the elements above the roof, attic, second floor, beams, etc. All exterior walls are load-bearing, while only a few interior walls are load-bearing. On the other hand, a lordless wall supports only itself. Although it may be physically attached to the ceiling, it does not support the ceiling.
No-load walls only exist for separate rooms.
Before you remove interior walls without a load, consider these points regarding carpentry structure, clearance, demolition, and how the load is carried.
1. The Wall May Exist For A Reason
Older homes were segmented into many small rooms to better control heating or because milled wood could not cover great distances. Old-growth forests that produce large blocks are thinning out, but the day of inexpensive laminated veneer wood (LVL) has not arrived.
Newer post-World War II homes are starting to adopt open floor plans and span the distance. It is a house that has one large communal area which includes a kitchen, dining room, living room, and possibly even other rooms.
Today, as homeowners think more about green-building and smart energy-saving tactics, few methods are as efficient as heating and cooling individual spaces than entire homes at once.
Only in the last 30 years, we have seen how the sky-vaulted (or cathedral) fall into resentment as an energy vampire. Could the open floor plan be next?
In short, even if the purpose of the wall does not bear the weight, it may exist for other reasons: sound blocking, energy segmentation, privacy considerations.
One of the worst things you can do when it comes to renovating is to start removing walls as soon as you buy a home. Stay home for a few months and get a feel for it before you start making big changes, like moving or removing walls.
2. Determine That It Is Really Not Carrying A Burden
The walls always define the rooms. But they only sometimes bear the burden from above and are important to the structural integrity of the entire house.
You can play detective and determine if the walls have weights:
- All exterior walls have a load. There are no exceptions to this rule.
- If the walls are parallel to the joists above, it is likely not loading loads.
- If the wall is load-bearing, it will be built perpendicular to the beams above it.
- Some walls that are constructed at a perpendicular angle may still be loads. Wardrobes are a great example.
3. Confirm With the Contractor or Engineer That It Is Not Load-Bearing
Determining whether an interior wall is load-bearing or not can be a tricky business.
You can get an opinion from a contractor, who will charge you an hourly or flat fee to inspect the walls.
If you’re really worried about getting an expert opinion, hire a structural engineer.
Structural engineers will charge fees, and these costs are often quite high. Besides, the engineer might have a minimum fee, so it might not be possible for him to come in just half an hour.
4. Required Permissions
Permissions and more permissions! As time went on, municipalities added even more renovation activities to their permit lists. Wall removal is an activity that is allowed in almost all communities.
Even though you’ve decided that you can remove your walls with zero effect on the structural integrity of the house, your city or county permit agent still doesn’t trust you enough. This is because there is a long history of homeowners before you remove the walls and cause serious damage to the home and even injure others.
So, don’t take it personally. Pay $ 85 for a permit and consider the costs of running a business.
5. You Can Find Cables, Pipes, and Other Sensitive Items Inside Walls
Removing interior non-bearing walls is as easy as crushing them and sending all waste material into a roll container. While it’s not a job that can be completed in two hours on a Friday afternoon, you may find that it’s easier than expected. In fact, the main thing you need to pay attention to is the utilities that run through the interior walls: electricity, plumbing, wiring, and telephone.
If the non-bearing interior walls of your own utilities, then you have cost extra to hire a plumber or handyman electricity to go in and “close” the utility.
For electricity, you will be left with a junction box covered by a blank faceplate, which can usually be overlaid.